A sump pump should be tested and inspected at least once a year — ideally before Colorado’s spring snowmelt season when basement water intrusion risk peaks. Routine maintenance includes cleaning the pit, testing the float switch, checking the discharge line, and confirming the backup battery is holding a charge. Staying on top of these tasks is far less expensive than dealing with a flooded basement.
Annual Testing: The Pour-Water Test
The simplest maintenance task you can do yourself is the pour-water test. Slowly pour a bucket of water into the sump pit and watch whether the pump activates promptly as the water rises and then shuts off cleanly once it’s been expelled. If the pump hesitates, runs continuously, makes grinding noises, or doesn’t turn on at all, something needs attention before the next real storm arrives. This test takes five minutes and can prevent thousands of dollars in water damage.
Cleaning the Pit and Inlet Screen
Over time, gravel, sediment, and debris accumulate in the sump pit and can clog the pump’s inlet screen or impeller. Colorado’s clay-heavy soils mean the water that drains into your pit often carries fine sediment. Once a year, unplug the pump, lift it out of the pit, and rinse the inlet screen. Check the inside of the pit for silt buildup and scoop it out if needed. A clogged screen forces the motor to work harder and shortens pump life significantly.
Inspecting the Float Switch and Check Valve
The float switch is what tells your pump when to turn on and off. It can get tangled, coated with debris, or simply wear out over time. Make sure it moves freely and isn’t resting against the pit wall or the pump body. The check valve on the discharge line prevents water from flowing back into the pit after the pump shuts off — a faulty check valve causes the pump to short-cycle repeatedly, wearing out the motor prematurely. Both are inexpensive parts that a plumber can replace quickly.
Battery Backup Maintenance
If you have a battery backup system, the battery itself needs attention. Most sealed lead-acid backup batteries last three to five years. Check the charge level annually and replace the battery on schedule — a dead backup during a spring storm is the same as having no backup at all. Some newer systems use lithium batteries or connect to your home’s electrical panel for trickle charging; those have different maintenance needs, which a plumber can walk you through.
Discharge Line and Exterior Check
Follow your discharge line from the pump to where it exits the house. The exterior end should terminate well away from your foundation — typically at least 10 feet — so expelled water doesn’t drain back toward the house. In winter, the discharge line can freeze if it’s not properly sloped or insulated, which will cause the pump to overheat when it has nowhere to push water. Check it each fall before hard freezes hit the Front Range.
- Test the pump with a bucket of water each spring
- Clean the inlet screen and pit annually
- Confirm the float switch moves freely
- Inspect and replace the check valve if it’s leaking back
- Replace backup batteries every 3–5 years
- Clear and re-slope the discharge line before winter
If you’d rather have a licensed plumber handle the annual inspection — especially if your sump pump is more than five years old — Done! can take care of it. Learn more about our sump pump services, or ask about our Care Club membership for ongoing maintenance coverage.
