If your sump pump stops working, start by checking the basics — power supply, float switch position, and whether the pit is overloaded — before concluding the pump has failed. Many apparent sump pump failures are caused by a tripped breaker or a float switch that’s stuck or tangled. If the pump is truly failed and water is actively rising in the pit, call a plumber immediately to prevent basement flooding.

Check the Power First

Sump pumps draw enough current that they can trip a GFCI outlet or circuit breaker, particularly if the motor is laboring due to age or blockage. Go to your electrical panel and look for a tripped breaker in the dedicated circuit for the sump pump. If the pump is plugged into a GFCI outlet (common in basements), press the reset button on the outlet. Try plugging the pump into a different outlet to rule out the circuit entirely. If the pump hums but doesn’t move water, the impeller may be jammed — unplug it before reaching into the pit to check for debris.

Inspect the Float Switch

The float switch is the sensor that tells the pump when water is high enough to activate. It can get stuck in the down position if it’s wrapped around the pump body, tangled in debris, or wedged against the pit wall. Manually lift the float to see if the pump activates. If it does, the switch is your problem — not the motor itself. Repositioning the float or replacing the switch is usually a quick, inexpensive fix.

Check the Discharge Line

A blocked discharge line will cause the pump to run continuously without actually removing water from the pit — the motor overheats and eventually trips its thermal overload or burns out. Trace the discharge line from the pump to where it exits the house. In winter, the exterior portion of the line can freeze solid, especially if it’s not properly sloped or insulated. During Colorado’s spring snowmelt, when sump pumps work hardest, a frozen or blocked discharge line is a common culprit behind what looks like pump failure.

When the Pump Has Actually Failed

If you’ve checked the power, float switch, and discharge line and the pump still won’t activate — or activates but produces no flow and no blockage is evident — the motor has likely failed. Submersible sump pump motors typically last 7 to 10 years with proper maintenance. If yours is in that range or older, replacement is almost always more cost-effective than repair, since motor replacement costs approach the price of a new unit.

What to Do While Water Is Rising

  • Use a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove water from the pit manually while you wait for help
  • Move valuables, electronics, and water-sensitive items off the floor immediately
  • If water has reached electrical outlets or appliances, shut off power to that area at the breaker
  • Call Done! for emergency plumbing service — we carry replacement pumps and can often install same-day

Adding a Battery Backup After the Crisis

Once the immediate problem is resolved, seriously consider adding a battery backup sump pump if you don’t already have one. Denver’s spring storms — the ones that drop heavy wet snow overnight and then turn to rain by morning — are exactly the scenario where the primary pump runs longest and where power outages are most likely. A backup pump can run for hours on battery power and often pays for itself the first time the main grid goes down during a wet storm.

Done! is available for sump pump emergencies throughout the Denver metro. Visit our sump pump services page to schedule service, or learn about emergency plumbing if water is actively rising in your basement right now.