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Mold around a toilet can form from high humidity, poor ventilation, or condensation on cold porcelain surfaces. In bathrooms where warm, moist air meets cool toilet tanks — a common scenario during colder months — condensation can collect and drip unnoticed. When combined with minor plumbing issues, this moisture buildup can lead to mold behind the toilet, under the tank, or around the base. A plumbing inspection can help determine whether moisture is coming from a leak, condensation, or both.
Toilet leaks don’t always show up as obvious water on the bathroom floor. Moisture can seep into flooring or subfloor materials through small seal failures or stressed connections. In Denver homes, seasonal expansion and contraction of materials can make these slow leaks harder to notice. Over time, that trapped moisture creates an environment where mold can grow even when the bathroom appears dry.
In many homes, especially in the Denver area where temperature swings are common, moisture can build up beneath or behind a toilet without leaving visible water. Condensation on the tank, worn seals under the base, or slow plumbing leaks can all create damp conditions that allow mold to return repeatedly. Until the source of that moisture is identified and addressed, cleaning alone often provides only temporary results.
Most flicker starts with something simple. These are the first things electricians typically rule out during an inspection:
If basic bulb or dimmer fixes don’t resolve the problem, electricians look beyond the fixture and into wiring connections, shared circuits, and the electrical panel to find the root cause.
When multiple lights flicker at the same time across rooms or circuits, the issue usually isn’t the bulb or switch. It’s often upstream, where electricity is distributed through your home.
Two common causes electricians see:
Sometimes the source isn’t inside the home at all. A failing meter base, service drop, or transformer can affect the entire property — and even nearby homes. If neighbors mention house lights flickering too, the issue may be on the utility side.
Diagnosing neutral and panel-related problems requires electrical testing and should only be handled by a licensed electrician.
It can be, depending on the cause.
Flicker from loose connections can create heat and arcing. Arcing occurs when electricity jumps across a gap instead of flowing through a secure contact, generating extremely high temperatures that can damage insulation or nearby materials.
Electrical faults that cause persistent flicker increase the risk of overheating and fire. Because these problems often develop gradually and out of sight, electricians focus on early diagnosis, before visible damage or failure occurs.
Call for help quickly if you notice:
If you’ve been wondering “why are my lights flickering” and the behavior keeps returning or gets worse, don’t ignore it. Even if lights stabilize temporarily, the underlying issue may still be present and can flare up under heavy load or temperature changes.
You can try a few simple checks without getting into risky territory:
For safety, set firm boundaries. Do not open your electrical panel, remove cover plates to access live wiring, or tighten service connections. If you notice heat, odor, buzzing, or visible damage, stop and call a professional.
If flickering continues after these checks, further troubleshooting requires electrical testing tools and panel access best left to a licensed electrician.
Call an electrician if:
Homes with older electrical panels may also lack the capacity for modern electrical loads. A professional inspection can identify weak connections, overloaded circuits, or aging components and recommend targeted repairs or panel upgrades.
Electricians start with a safety-focused inspection, checking fixtures, switches, and accessible connections for wear, heat marks, and loose terminations. They verify LED and dimmer compatibility and correct mismatches that cause shimmer.
They then measure voltage and circuit load, observe appliance start-up behavior, and test for neutral faults, voltage drop, and imbalance. Inside the panel, they inspect breakers, lugs, and connections for corrosion or improper torque. If the issue appears utility-related, electricians document findings and coordinate with the power company.
You’ll receive clear explanations, repair options, and guidance on next steps. The goal is simple: identify the true cause—whether it’s a fixture, wiring run, circuit, panel component, or service connection—and fix it correctly the first time.
If you notice multiple lights flickering across rooms or circuits, it’s time to bring in a professional electrician. That pattern often points to a shared wiring connection, neutral issue, or electrical panel problem that requires testing and panel access.
Persistent flicker that happens daily, worsens over time, or causes lights to brighten and dim unexpectedly should also be evaluated. These symptoms commonly indicate loose terminations or arcing connections that degrade with normal use.
If flickering appears alongside breaker trips, partial power loss, buzzing, heat, or burning smells, treat it as urgent. These are conditions electricians in Denver are trained to diagnose safely and correct before damage escalates.
For Denver homes and businesses, Done! electricians specialize in tracking down flickering light issues at the source—whether the problem is in a fixture, circuit, panel, or service connection.
Denver winters don’t behave like winters in most parts of the country, and your thermostat shouldn’t be treated like they do. High elevation, intense sun, dry air, and fast-moving weather systems create bigger temperature swings and more uneven heating across Front Range homes.
Our HVAC technicians see it every winter: south-facing rooms that warm up in the afternoon and cool quickly after sunset, systems that cycle more during sudden cold fronts, and homes where the thermostat setting sounds right but still feels off. Managing humidity, sun exposure, and day-to-night temperature changes — often with a programmable or smart thermostat — helps you find the best winter setting without overworking your heating system or driving up energy costs.
Use these ranges as a starting point. Adjust one degree at a time until your home feels steady and your bills make sense.
| Situation | Recommended Set Point | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Home during the day | Around 68°F | Common balance of comfort and efficiency in well-sealed homes. |
| Nighttime | 60–62°F | Lower by 6–8 degrees from your evening setting; use proper bedding. |
| Away for the day | 60–62°F | Cuts run time without long warm-ups. |
| Extended trips | At least 60°F | Avoid going below the mid-50s to limit frozen pipe risk. |
Home characteristics matter. Tight, well-insulated homes can stay comfortable at slightly lower set points. Drafty homes or those with thin attic insulation may need a small bump until air sealing and insulation are improved. If you’re unsure of the best temperature to set thermostat in winter for your space, start at 68°F, then tweak based on how rooms feel in the evening and early morning.
Different systems deliver heat differently, which can change what temperature feels “right.” This is key when choosing a thermostat setting for winter that you’ll stick with.
If your home struggles to reach or hold the set point, it may be a system or control issue. Uneven room temperatures, short cycling, or loud runs are signs it’s time for a check. Done! offers furnace repair and thermostat evaluations to get things back on track fast.
Lowering your set point by about 7–10 degrees for 8 hours can deliver meaningful thermostat energy savings winter after winter. Your home loses heat more slowly at lower indoor temperatures, and your furnace or heat pump runs less.
Consistency pays off. High-efficiency systems do best with planned schedules instead of frequent manual changes. A programmable or smart thermostat will warm the house before you wake or return, so comfort is there when you need it without wasting energy while you’re away.
If you want help building schedules or choosing the best thermostat in winter for your setup, our smart thermostat installation service includes setup, app connection, and training.
It’s comfortable for many households, but not always the most efficient. If your home is drafty, insulation is limited, or someone is more sensitive to cold – infants, seniors, or those with certain health conditions – 72°F may make sense during cold spells. For long-term savings, fix the root causes so the best temperature for heater in winter, around 68–70°F, feels just as good.
If temperatures vary room to room, schedule furnace maintenance to correct airflow or control issues before the next cold front.
For daytime absences, aim for 60–62°F. For longer trips, maintain at least 60°F and avoid going below the mid-50s. In Denver’s dry cold, pipes can be at risk when interior spaces hover near 55°F or lower, especially along exterior walls, basements, and crawl spaces. These practices support recommended thermostat settings for winter without risking damage.
Heading out of town? Making a small thermostat adjustment and checking your heating system can help prevent surprises. If you want a professional look, call Done! Heating & Cooling to schedule a system check before you leave.
Consider an upgrade if you notice temperature swings, rooms that don’t match the set point, short cycling, a flickering display, or odd run times. A worn sensor or miscalibrated thermostat can waste energy and undermine the best temperature to set thermostat in winter.
Modern options offer strong everyday value:
If your thermostat is 10 years old or lacks scheduling, upgrading can pay off quickly. Done handles smart thermostat installation, setup, and training so everything works on day one.
These basics often let you lower your thermostat in winter by a degree or two without sacrificing comfort — small changes that add up to thermostat energy savings winter after winter.
During a cold snap, your system may struggle. Before you crank the setting higher, check the simple stuff:
If issues persist—burner cycling, unusual noises, or no heat—book furnace repair. If your equipment is aging and fixes are adding up, we can compare heating system replacement options, including high-efficiency furnaces and cold-climate heat pumps. We also service hybrid systems and provide heat pump repair when needed.
Winter in Denver can change fast. You need clear guidance, on-time service, and work that holds up to the next cold front. Done! delivers all three. Since 1999, our licensed HVAC technicians have helped homeowners across Aurora and Greater Denver set schedules that work, prevent frozen pipes, and keep systems running efficiently. You get straightforward explanations, upfront pricing, and results that last.
If you’re ready to lock in the best temperature to set thermostat in winter for your home—or you want a smart upgrade that boosts thermostat energy savings in winter — One Call… It’s Done!
Plumbing costs in Denver can vary widely, and that’s because no two jobs, or homes, are exactly alike. Citywide, most plumbing services fall somewhere between modest repair costs for small fixes and higher ranges for larger projects that require more time, equipment, or expertise. When you’re choosing a plumber, what matters most isn’t just the price — it’s knowing exactly what you’re paying for, who’s doing the work, and whether the repair will actually stand the test of time.
Across Colorado, plumber labor rates typically land in the low-$30s per hour, and Denver follows a similar trend. Some highly trained plumbers, especially master plumbers or emergency technicians, can effectively make $100 an hour or more; and that’s normal in the trades. It reflects years of training, licensing, code knowledge, and the ability to diagnose issues correctly the first time. But here’s the important thing for homeowners: a plumber’s hourly wage is not the same as what you’ll pay. Your service price includes a licensed technician, a fully stocked service vehicle, diagnostic tools, materials, and the assurance that the work is done safely and up to code.
At Done! Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric, we believe the best way to build trust is to keep pricing clear. Below are the types of plumbing jobs Denver homeowners call us for most often — along with typical cost expectations so you know what’s normal before you even pick up the phone:
These numbers help you understand what’s common across Denver, but the real value comes from having a trained professional diagnose your exact situation. Homes across the metro area all have different plumbing layouts, soil conditions, water pressure challenges, and aging fixtures — all of which can affect price and complexity.
When you call Done, you get clear, upfront pricing before any work begins. We walk you through your options, explain what’s necessary versus what’s optional, and help you make a confident decision. No pressure. No surprises. Just an experienced technician who treats your home like their own and makes sure the job’s done right.
If you’re noticing leaks, slow drains, inconsistent hot water, or anything that just doesn’t feel right with your plumbing, we’re ready to help.
To truly understand what happens when pipes freeze, it helps to look at what’s going on inside the line. When plumbing is exposed to prolonged cold or poor insulation, the water inside begins to solidify. Ice expands—about nine percent more volume than liquid water—which forces pressure outward. If the pipe or its fittings can’t handle that pressure, the material can warp, crack, or split.
Areas most vulnerable include crawl spaces, garages, attics, basements, and exterior walls where cold air sneaks in. Early signs include little or no water flow, strange noises when a faucet is opened, frost on exposed pipes, or a water meter that barely moves. As thawing begins, you may see drips or discoloration in the water—small signals that a joint could be compromised.
Different materials react differently when the freeze hits. Copper pipes may split lengthwise, PVC tends to crack at fittings, and PEX is more flexible but still vulnerable at its connectors. Location matters too: learning what happens when pipes freeze in hard-to-reach areas like behind walls or inside cabinets helps you understand where to act first. And knowing what can happen if your pipes freeze in older homes or long plumbing runs can be the difference between a small inconvenience and a major repair.
Risk goes up when cold snaps last several days, when insulation has gaps, when foundation vents are open, or when unused plumbing branches hold stagnant water. Understanding what can happen if your pipes freeze—and where—helps you stay one step ahead.
The ice itself isn’t always the problem, it’s the pressure it creates. Even if the freeze occurs in one small section, the pressure spike can push outward and cause a rupture several feet away. That’s what happens when pipes freeze and then thaw: once the ice melts, any crack becomes a pathway for water to escape, sometimes at high volume. Floors, ceilings, drywall, insulation, and electrical components can all be affected within minutes.
You may notice inconsistent water flow: some taps dry, others sputtering. Appliances like water heaters, boilers, or dishwashers may shut down if flow isn’t steady. And if the freeze-thaw cycle repeats, it weakens pipes over time—part of what happens if your pipes freeze repeatedly. Corrosion accelerates, utility bills climb, and reliability drops.
If you’re curious what happens if a pipe freezes behind a wall, the answer is complicated. Hidden freezes often show up as stains, musty smells, soft drywall, or unexplained spikes in your water bill. These situations call for professional assessment so damage doesn’t spread.
Repeated freeze-thaw cycles also raise safety concerns. Water infiltration can reach outlets or junction boxes, and moisture trapped behind walls encourages mold growth. Learning what can happen if your pipes freeze helps you act early—before small issues grow into major repairs.
Thawing requires patience. You want to restore flow without overheating the pipe or causing a sudden rupture. Start by opening nearby taps slightly to relieve pressure. If you can reach the frozen section, warm it slowly and evenly. Never use open flames or high-heat tools; they’re unsafe and can damage the plumbing.
Safe DIY thawing techniques include using a hair dryer on low or medium, moving it along the pipe; placing a space heater at a safe distance to warm the room; wrapping pipes in warm towels; or applying heat tape designed specifically for plumbing. Keep electric tools away from standing water and use GFCI outlets whenever possible.
If you’re not sure what happens when pipes freeze in your particular plumbing setup—or you can’t find the frozen portion—give Done a call. If multiple fixtures are affected, if you suspect a hidden leak, or if what happens if a pipe freezes involves a sudden burst, turn off your home’s main water supply immediately. Our technicians specialize in safe thawing, non-invasive leak detection, and targeted repairs to restore service quickly.
Preparation makes all the difference in preventing frozen pipes. Before extreme cold sets in, disconnect hoses, drain outdoor lines, and close interior shut-offs to exterior spigots. Seal gaps around windows, doors, utility penetrations, and sill plates. Maintain a steady indoor temperature, especially in rooms with plumbing. If you travel, don’t set your thermostat below 55°F, and consider draining vulnerable lines entirely.
Insulation is one of the most effective ways to prevent what happens when pipes freeze inside your home. Use foam sleeves on lines in crawl spaces, basements, and attics. Install insulated covers on hose bibs. In chronic cold spots, heat cables with built-in thermostats can keep pipes warm. Adding insulation to exterior walls or around water heaters can also help stabilize temperatures.
Smart monitoring adds another layer of protection. Temperature and leak sensors in attics, garages, and crawl spaces can alert you before a freeze becomes a burst. During extremely cold weather, let faucets drip slightly to keep water moving. Watch for early warning signs: slowed flow, cold rooms near plumbing, or a meter that barely moves. Understanding what happens if your pipes freeze can help you react before the damage spreads.
If you suspect a freeze, act fast. If you hear hissing or see signs of a burst, turn off the main water supply right away. Open faucets to relieve pressure. If the frozen area is accessible and dry, you can try gentle thawing techniques. Never use blowtorches, propane heaters, or any open-flame tools.
Document any visible damage, and if water may have reached electrical components, shut off power to that area. A professional evaluation is the safest next step—especially if what happens if a pipe freezes leads to a hidden leak or structural risk.
If you’re tempted to “wait it out,” keep in mind what can happen if your pipes freeze and stay frozen: once temperatures rise, pressure changes can turn a tiny crack into a full-blown water release. Don’t wait—Done can help you address the problem quickly.
When every minute matters, you deserve a team that responds quickly and communicates clearly. At Done, we’ve spent decades helping Denver and Aurora homeowners handle what happens when pipes freeze with speed and precision. Our technicians are licensed, experienced, and trained to thaw pipes safely, repair lines correctly, and prevent future problems.
Here’s what you can expect from us:
If you want a partner who explains what happens if your pipes freeze, why it happened, and how to stop it from happening again, we’re here to help. Since 1999, homeowners across the Front Range have trusted Done to protect their homes through Colorado’s harshest winters.
Frozen pipes can feel overwhelming, but you don’t have to face the stress alone. Whether you’re dealing with a burst pipe, slow flow, or a hidden freeze, Done offers fast service, honest pricing, and dependable repairs. If you suspect trouble, shut off your main water supply and call us—we’ll take it from there.
Still unsure what happens when pipes freeze in your home’s layout? Or wondering what happens if your pipes freeze behind a wall or under a floor? We’ll assess, explain, and resolve the issue quickly and safely. With Done, you get a team that treats your home with respect, prioritizes your comfort, and delivers the peace of mind you deserve.
One call really does get it Done—professionally, promptly, and with your home’s safety at the center of everything we do.
A pressure vacuum breaker works by using a spring-loaded valve and an air inlet to stop backflow in irrigation and outdoor water systems. When the system is operating normally, the valve remains closed to maintain pressure. When water flow stops, the valve closes and the air inlet opens, preventing contaminated water from being siphoned backward into the main water line.
This backflow prevention process creates a physical barrier between potentially contaminated water—such as irrigation runoff—and the home’s potable water supply. Pressure vacuum breakers are commonly required by plumbing codes for sprinkler systems and outdoor water connections because they help protect water quality.
If a pressure vacuum breaker is leaking, not holding pressure, or releasing water from the top, it may indicate wear, internal damage, or a failed seal. Inspection and testing can confirm whether repair or replacement is needed to keep the system functioning properly and compliant with local plumbing requirements.
Frozen pipes don’t automatically burst, but the risk is very real — especially in Denver and the surrounding Front Range, where temperatures can drop quickly and stay below freezing for extended periods.
When water freezes inside a pipe, it expands. That expansion increases pressure inside the pipe, particularly between the ice blockage and a closed faucet or valve. If the pressure becomes too great, the pipe can crack or burst. In many cases, the pipe actually breaks after the ice begins to thaw, when water flow resumes and escapes through weakened areas.
Whether a frozen pipe bursts depends on several factors:
For Denver-area homes and businesses, sudden temperature swings are a major concern. A pipe may freeze overnight during a cold front, then thaw quickly during a sunny afternoon, creating the perfect conditions for a delayed burst and unexpected water damage.
If you suspect a pipe is frozen, acting quickly can help prevent a rupture. Keeping faucets slightly open, warming the affected area safely, and calling a professional before thawing causes damage can make a big difference.
Unthawing frozen pipes isn’t just about getting water flowing again — it’s about preventing a pipe from bursting and avoiding costly damage. In Denver-area homes and businesses, where rapid temperature swings are common, frozen pipes are especially risky once thawing begins.
When a pipe is frozen, pressure builds inside it. If thawing happens too quickly or unevenly, that pressure can cause cracks or sudden bursts — often behind walls or in ceilings where damage isn’t immediately visible. This is why many pipe failures happen after the ice melts, not during the freeze.
Professional plumbers use controlled thawing methods designed to safely restore flow while relieving pressure. Just as important, they can inspect the pipe for hidden damage and address weak points before they turn into leaks or floods.
For Denver homes and commercial properties, frozen pipes are most common in:
If you suspect a pipe is frozen – especially if water pressure has dropped or stopped entirely – it’s best to call before attempting to thaw it yourself. Early professional help can prevent emergency repairs, water damage, and business downtime.
If you suspect your pipes are frozen, it’s important to act quickly—but carefully. In Denver-area homes and businesses, frozen pipes are common during sudden cold snaps, especially in exterior walls, unheated spaces, and older buildings.
Signs of frozen pipes may include:
Even if there’s no visible damage yet, a frozen pipe can burst without warning — often when temperatures rise and the ice begins to thaw. This can lead to hidden leaks, structural damage, and costly repairs.
Calling a licensed plumber as soon as you notice a potential freeze allows the issue to be addressed safely. A professional can locate the frozen section, thaw it in a controlled way, and check for cracks or weaknesses before water flow is fully restored.
For Denver homes and commercial properties, early professional intervention is one of the best ways to avoid emergency plumbing calls, water damage, and business disruption.
An air handler typically looks like a large metal box or cabinet, usually rectangular, that contains the blower motor, evaporator coil, and air filter. It is connected to your ductwork and is often located in a basement, attic, garage, or utility closet, depending on the home’s layout.
An air handler is one of the main components of your HVAC system, and at first glance, it usually looks like a plain metal box or cabinet. Most air handlers are rectangular and range in size from a large suitcase to a tall appliance, depending on the system and the size of the home. Inside the cabinet are key parts like the blower motor, evaporator coil, and air filter, all of which work together to circulate conditioned air throughout your home.
In many Denver-area homes, air handlers are commonly found in basements, utility rooms, attics, garages, or interior closets. Newer homes may have more compact, vertically mounted units, while older systems are often larger and easier to spot. You may also notice insulated ductwork connected to the unit, along with electrical wiring and a condensate drain line.
If you’re unsure whether you’ve found your air handler, or if the unit looks rusted, noisy, or oversized for the space, it may be a sign that it needs professional attention. For homeowners across the Denver metro area, including those in southern Denver with easy access from Aurora, Done! Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric can help identify your air handler, inspect its condition, and recommend repair or replacement options when needed.